Lombok: Coming Out From Bali's Shadow

In Indonesia, we were to stop in Bali. However, Saturday, March 5, was the Hindu celebration of the Day of Silence. On that day, there could be no talking (meditation was suggested), eating (fasting was preferred), fires, working, lights, entertainment, pleasurable activities or traveling. Not exactly a welcome day for visitors. Most non-Hindus go to Lombok for the day. So Lombok, an island 12 miles east of Bali that experienced travelers think resembles Bali as it appeared 20 years ago, became our port of the day. If you have seen the movie Eat. Pray. Love. you may have noticed Julie Roberts, who played the author of the book Liz, reading a tour guide for Bali with a smaller title for Lombok. The island is visited by 13 cruise ships annually so the residents were very happy to welcome us.

Our destination lecturer Richard told us that we were not in Kansas anymore. Up to this point, most of the places we visited resembled home. But from now on, we needed to think of ourselves as travelers, not tourists. We need to ask permission before snapping photographs, make sure that our knees and arms are covered before entering a temple, do not touch people on the head where there spirit is, do not wave with our left hand because the left hand is impure being used for personal hygiene, and respect that the residents personal habits may be different than our. He used a PowerPoint show to explain to us how to use a squat toilet. His slides and words were informative as well as entertaining.

Rich and Joan planned a tour of Lombok that mushroomed into 48 people in six vans, each with a local guide and driver from the PT Adventure Lombok Tours. Because we had to tender at this port, our major goal for early morning was to be on the first tender as soon as our ship was cleared for passengers to go ashore. We gladly signed on for a full day of sightseeing of sights no one could ever see in Kansas or any other state. Being in a van was a good thing because on an island with a population of 3.2 million, there are 3 million motorcycles, many used as taxis. Our guide, Iwan, confirmed that there were many vehicular accidents because a resident could obtain a driver's license in one hour for $10, no driving test required.

Our first stop was Banyumulek Lombok Pottery Centre, where we watched people making pottery in a traditional manner from red clay. We would have loved to have bought pieces but could not figure out how we could get them home not in many more pieces. Our next stop was the Sukarara hand weaving villages, where we watched women hand weaving in the traditional way and toured the small village. At the store, Ken decided to buy a shawl. Because he had not attended the lecture where our port destination speaker told us to bargain with the vendor and expect to pay at least 30 percent less than the original given price, Ken paid what the man asked. Some lucky relative or friend is going to receive a beautiful souvenier.

Probably the most unusual stop on the tour was at the Bertals Traditional Maarket, where shoppers in Lombok could buy anything. There is nothing like this in Kansas City or any city or town in the United States. Fish, chicken, worms, a red paste made with fish that is used as a spice--whatever you could imagine, it was available in the market. It was a maze of small booths with dirt floors and aisles that were muddy and the market was undercover. When we returned to the ship from the tour, most people not only washed or cleaned their shoes but sprayed them with Lysol.

Then we traveled to Narmada Park, which was built in 1727 during the era of a king with a six-part name (Ank Agung Gde Ngurak Karang Asem). The king enjoyed climbing Mt. Rinjani, the highest mountain in Lombok to meditate and worship. When he was not able to climb the mountain anymore, he asked his people to build a replica of the mountain in the area of his Summer Palace. There he rested and contemplated the future of his kingdom while enjoying the beauty of the park. In reality, he watched the beautiful ladies, who were members of his harem or his daughters, from the upper level of the temple. Today, a public swimming pool beacons the citizens to take a break from the hot, humid climate.

Our last stop was Malimbu Hill near Senggigi, Lombok's premiere resort destination with a superb white-sand beach stretching for six miles. The view of the beach from the hill was spectacular with monkeys who were running up and down palm trees and balancing themselves on the palm fronds offering a floor show. Then we were treated to the mandatory stop at an overpriced Lombok Pearl store where tour guides received commissions if their tourists purchased items. Noemi gave our tour guide the perfect opening to stop there when she expressed her interest in all types of pearls. We heard later that some of our fellow passengers in the other vans refused to let the guide stop the van and usher them into the store.

In between stops, Iwan provided us with commentary on life in Lombok. The population is the opposite of Bali with 85 percent being Muslims and 15 percent being Hindu. Rice is the main staple of the diet with the rice field being divided into three levels-- No. 1 for export, No. 2 for the middle class and No. 3 for the poor. There are two seasons, wet and dry. If a man wants a wife, the normal fee to the parents is two or three water buffalo to pay for the party. If any of the parents do not approve of the marriage, the man must kidnap the woman from her house. Iwan, 37, had married his wife, who is 11 years younger than he is, six years ago. All he had to pay was $500 for the party with friends, relatives and neighbors contributing to the affair. The happy couple has a 4 1/2-year-old son. While men may have four wives, 99 percent have only one. The typical age for a bride is 15 or 16. School is mandatory for grades 1-12. One of the men in our van gave his scarf from the hand weaving village to a local woman who asked him for it. We now think that they may be legally married, and she could show up at his cabin any time if she has not already. This port reminded us most of Rabaul in Papau New Guinea without the volcanic ash. We would have a difficult time adapting to the life style but the people were very warm and welcoming.

Back at the dock, we wandered through the make-shift market for the day. By this time, we experienced poring rain. The best booth offered pint bottles of a local beer, Trawangan. Ken bought the T-shirt advertising the beer. We also could have purchased cigarettes, made at the manufacturing plant of Philip Morris in Lombok, for cheap prices. According to our guide, 95 percent of men in Lombok smoke cigarettes.

We now have three ports in a row--Sihanourville, which is a jumping off point for the Angkor Wat Overland Excursion, Laem Chibang (we just like saying the name) for Bangkok, Thailand, and Ko Samui, Thailand, where those who were on the Angkor Wat Overland Excursion will board the ship. Ginger and Joe went on the overland excursion so we will miss them for the next two nights. Check back with us on March 12.