Soly informed us that Maputo has a population of 2 million while Mozambique numbered 22 million with many people working in the mines in Johannesburg. On our drive, we spotted a van carrying at least twice the people in our van of nine passengers and a driver--shades of India. Everything was going smoothly until we got to the border of Mozambique and South Africa. After careful checking before we left the ship, we had been told that all we needed was our passport stamped. Unfortunately, the officials at the border claimed that we needed a visa stamp so they refused to let us through. Someone also mentioned that the stamp cost $75. We ran into Sergio and Noemi, who were greeted by the same fate on the start of a five-day safari. Noemi was so upset that she explained the situation to Sara in Spanish. If this were India, we would have concluded that someone was looking for a pay-off. Later, we were to learn that what happened to us was not uncommon and a pay-off often worked.
Sylvia said that she hoped the buses carrying the passengers who had signed up for the tours on the ship did not do a city tour of Maputo so they would be there soon. Sara had a copy of the Princess Patter with the name of the ship's agent in Maputo who was called and promised to contact the ship. The only fascinating thing about the border check-point was the free condoms that were distributed to help prevent HIV-AIDs. If Mozambique wants to detain travelers, the country needs to offer a lounge with free coffee, tea, soft drinks and snacks along with televisions, video games and native entertainers. We stood outside in the blazing sun trying to find any shade that we could.
Fortunately two buses from the Pacific Princess arrived after we had been there almost an hour. With many more travelers than the border-crossing station could accommodate, the officials let our drivers take all the passports and make lists of the passengers before clearing us to proceed. We talked with Sandy, our future cruise specialist, and Frankie, the deputy cruise director, who promised a "Frankie Talk" on this experience. Once we crossed the border, we had to go through immigration into South Africa. Because we had the completed entry form from the Pacific Princess, this was much easier. Sara was the last one through because she was delayed in line when the clerk took a cellphone call. Shades of home!
Our driver knew a shortcut but the bridge across the road was flooded so he backed up, backed up and backed up until he could turn the vehicle around to return to the main road. A man who was fishing where we turned around did not even notice. We liked the sign at the toll gate that pictured an ostrich with the writing, "Don't bury your head when there's something to be said. Report fraud, theft and dishonesty."
We entered Kruger National Park through the Crocodile Bridge entrance where we were greeted by our guide Leonard and were transferred to a Toyota four-wheel drive land cruiser with 11 seats to be transported to Shawu Private Lodge, a part of the Shishangeni Private Lodge. To be prepared for our game runs, Leonard taught us "valala vasola," which means "you snooze, you lose." When we arrived at Shawu, Leonard said he would return at 4 p.m. for our first of three game runs.
After we enjoyed a refreshing fruit juice drink, Golden, the lodge manager, showed as to our rooms. The lodge had only five huts, which are very large rooms with a canopy bed with white curtains and a large overhead fan, a vessel sink, an old-fashioned tub, a screened-in toilet area and an outdoor shower. When we arrived at our room, Number 3, we had to wait while Golden lodge manager disposed of a poisonous snake (after we took photographs, of course) that he said only bites when it is provoked. Because the lodge had no telephones in the rooms, Golden showed us blow horn that we were to use if we needed help.
The deck behind our room offered a magnificent view of the large watering pond where elephants, zebras, giraffes, warthogs, wildebeests, and impalas come to drink. Each species of animals seemed to have its own section and did not disturb each other. The rhinos seemed to be having a wonderful time in the pond. We were told never to get between a rhino and water because they would cut you in half. The rhinos also made their own sounds during the day and night that helped to remind us that we were not in Kansas anymore if we awoke during the middle of the night. We unpacked before going back to the main building for high tea before taking off for our first game run.
The first animals we saw were burcilla zebras, which were running down the road before veering into the tall grass when they heard our vehicle. While they look like horses, zebras have never been domesticated because they have very weak spines making them unsuitable for riding or carrying loads. The zebras were always switching their tails because of the flies that buzzed around their noses. But the flies really are beneficial to them because they enter the zebras' nasal cavities and go into the stomachs where they help them digest their food. The zebras' large stomachs are complimentary of gas that accumulates there. Ken took a wonderful video of one of the zebras going to the bathroom (number 2) that we would be willing to share. Remember, we invaded the zebra's territory so it had no reason not to respond to nature's call. The wildebeests hang out with the zebras. Egrets follow the wildebeests because they disturb the insects that egrets like to eat.
Next we spotted the giraffes. Okay, their height makes it difficult to miss them. Leonard explains that giraffes walk like camels with the two legs on one side taking a step, then the two legs on the other taking a step. The life expectancy for giraffes is 28 years. The females had black tuffs of hair on their horns while the males were bald because they wore off the hair when they fought. The gestation period for giraffes is 16 months, and the mother delivers the baby while standing up because lions could attack them if she laid down. Giraffes have the most beautiful eye lashes. We wondered what brand of mascara they use.
As we drove along the edge of Kruger National Park, we saw the fence that keeps the animals in so they do not migrate. Behind the fence were the sugar cane plantations. Leonard pointed out the fever trees with communal nests that housed 10 to 15 birds. On our trip, we spotted a yellow-billed horn bird. When these birds breed, the female requires the company of two males to feed her so if one dies, she can rely on the second male to feed her in the tree so she will die of starvation.
Other birds that we saw were the Malibu storks, which are the ugliest storks in the world; the utopia rolla that migrates to the park in the summer; the kori bustards, which are the heaviest flying birds in the world; vultures that start circling when there's fresh kill; the lilac breasted roller with its beautiful blue, pink and purple coloring; and the giant eagle owl. Sara was fascinated by the guinea hens that ran on the road, and when they heard our vehicle behind them, would speed up until they found a place with grass that had been stomped down where they could veer off the road into the field. They were so cute!
Next on the impromptu agenda were a mother and baby white rhino. The name had nothing to do with their color, which was gray, but their white lips on their mouths, which were made for grazing. Rhinos are very shy because they have extremely poor eyesight. While they knew we were there, they could not see us. The rhinos have no predators because they are the biggest animal in the jungle. The red-billed ox picker bird cleans the rhinos and eats the parasites on them. Nature really had worked out a great plan!
We were fortunate to spot kudu, which are extremely rare. These antelopes, which are the largest of their species, have an incredible rack of squiggly horns and can jump up to five meters high.
Trees that were new to us were the canopy tree that looks like its name and the sausage tree with fruits that looked just like the name and were pollinated by bats. While the fruit is not edible, it can be used to treat skin cancer. Also unusual were the acacia or toothpick trees.
As the sun was setting, Leonard drove the land cruiser into the grass and set up a sundowner of snacks, beer and wine for us. What a way to end our first game run by toasting the sunset and the animals with our favorite beverages. Afterward, we drove back to the camp where we enjoyed a delicious dinner and then went to our huts that the staff had prepared for the night with the flaps snapped down along the picture windows. The rhinos grunted us to sleep almost acting as if they knew our wake-up call would be 5:30 a.m. the next morning.
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