If you are ever traveling in an Islamic country in the Middle East, we have two suggestions for you. First, do not plan a major tour on a Friday because that is the Islamic holy day or holiday, and the mosques do not permit visitors and the souks, or markets, close at 11:30 a.m. Second, pack lightweight tops that have non-revealing necks and long sleeves and lightweight slacks for men or capri pants for women. Remember that women should dress so they do not attract the attention of men.
Muscat was a new port for the Pacific Princess and a port of great mystery to us. In other words, we knew very little about it. Our port talk speaker, Martyn Green, gave us a fascinating history of the country. In the 1960s, Sultan Sa'id bin Taymur sent his son, Sultan Qaboos bin Sa'id, to the best schools in London and Berlin, then on a trip around the world and then on a journey to all the different area of Oman. The son found the people to be oppressed with the country plagued by disease, illiteracy and poverty. To thank dear, old Dad for all his education and travels, the son staged a palace coup directed against his father, and, with the help of his British advisers, assumed power on July 23, 1970. The father later died in exile in London. After hearing from so many guides in other countries how wonderfully well they cared for their elders, this country might be a refreshing or, at least, an unusual change of pace.
Our guide Florent told us that the average temperature this time of year should be 37 degrees Centigrade (about 98 degrees F) but was already 43 degrees C. While we would not be able to go in the Grand Mosque, which was a gift from the current Sultan to the nation on the 30th anniversary of his reign, we would be able to walk around the outside. Both sides of the highway to the mosque were lined with mountains that were a mix of various rocks that were devoid of vegetation. Florent proclaimed that the mountains were a blessing to Oman from nature. He also stated that the Sultan is an excellent ruler and the country actually divides its history into two periods: before 1970 when Qaboos bin Sa'id ascended to the Sultanate, and after 1970 when the new Sultan began an ambitious program of revitalizing Muscat and Oman. It seems that what was best for dear, old Dad was not what was best for the country. Oman is not a case of Father Knows Best.
The mosque itself was built of Indian sandstone with Indian marble floors, a gold dome and other features that are a fusion of modern and traditional architectural elements. Its five minarets represent the five pillars of Islam. We wish we could have seen the inside because the carpet in it is the largest one in the world and took four years to weave. Our next stop was the Muttrah Souk where we were able to practice our negotiation skills on such treasures as beaded wall hangings, Al khanjar curved daggers that are worn on embroidered belts, silver jewelry, traditional Omani clothing and handicrafts made of copper and camel bone. Sara's newest acquisition was a ceramic cat that opens to a box. Thanks, Adele and Ed, for thinking of Sara when you spotted the only packable sized cat in the souk and pointing it out to her!
To get to the Bait Al Zubair, a private museum that is normally closed on Friday but was open for the Princess Tours, we passed many low-rise gleaming white buildings of traditional Islamic architecture. While Dubai is a city of the world's tallest skyscrapers, Muscat is straight out of Arabian nights. The city has won awards for cleanliness, architecture and beautification. The city actually supports a 24/7 cleaning program. We stopped to view the two 16th century harbor forts, Jalali and Murani. Perched atop rocky outcrops of the mountains, they are all that remains of Portugal's ambition to establish Portuguese dominion over the entire Indian Ocean.
We had only one-half hour to tour the private museum that was established to foster and preserve Oman's cultural heritage. Sara, who reads all the placards in a museum, was only able to view the sections on the Al Khanjar, home life, jewelry and traditional dress. She missed the entire section of weapons, which was Ken's favorite. Next time, she will ask if she can skip the shopping area and spend the extra time at the museum.
The last stop was the Al Alam Palace, built in the 1970s as the official resident of Sultan Qaboos, who has seven palaces, four of which are in Muscat. The main section of this palace, which is used to lodge visiting dignitaries, is blue and gold. The grounds, which overlook Muscat Bay, are beautifully landscaped with palm trees and flowers. Directly behind are the desert and the mountains devoid of vegetation.
With the temperature more than 100 degrees, and the mosques and souks closed for the holy day, we decided to stay on the ship for the rest of the afternoon. But first we visited one of the main tourist attractions on the dock, the Muscat Duty Free store. Along with the usual souvenirs, the store offered cigarettes, wine and spirits at good prices. Obviously, the word of this true find spread quickly among our fellow passengers. All afternoon, we watched people leave the ship and come back toting bags filled with bottles. If we were take a survey of passengers today on what was the best tourist attraction we have seen on the cruise to date, we are sure that the Muscat Duty Free store would rank in the Top Five, if not No. 1. Please remember that we have seen many amazing sites, including the Panama Canal, the Copper Canyon, Pearl Harbor, New Zealand's amazing scenery, the Sydney Opera House, Australia's rain forest, Rabaul's volcanoes, the temples in South Korea, the Great Wall, the Terracotta Warriors, Stanley Market in Hong Kong, the Hanoi Hilton, James Bond Island in Thailand, the Elephanta Caves in Mumbia and the world's tallest building in Dubai, to name just a few. But on a sweltering, hot day in the arid desert, nothing can beat a cool glass of wine!
DAILY LIFE IN MUSCAT
If you want to be a citizen of Oman, the best way is to be born there. If you are an ex-patriot, you have two alternatives: (1) after you have lived in Oman for 25 years, your case can be studied, or (2) if you invest in Oman by creating companies and job, the Sultan may make you a citizen. Citizens receive free education and transportation to the schools, with brilliant students being awarded scholarships to study aboard and be trained in subjects that are not taught in Oman and then return to the country to share their new knowledge. The Omani are very hospitable people who will serve you their coffee with a plate of dates so that you can mix the bitter and sweet tastes.
Marriages in Oman are arranged by the parents of both the bride and groom. A man is allowed to have four wives but must pay a dowry of between $12,000 and $60,000 to the parents of his prospective wife. If a man wants a second wife, he must get permission of his first wife and give a solid reason for the second marriage, such as the first wife not being able to have children. The husband must treat all his wives equally and provide them with the same gifts. Most of the men on our tour told the guide that one wife was more than enough!
Wow! Have you resisted the temptation to buy all of the beautiful things you see? What an interesting collection you will have!
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